How To Paint Laminate Furniture
|Give your old laminate furniture a makeover.|
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- Angled Sanding Sponge (I use these for almost every project, so it is worth buying in bulk.)
- 2" Angled Paint Brush (This one is affordable and works just as well as pricier brushes)
- Mini Foam Paint Roller (I used this set from Lowe's and it works great)
- Tack Cloth
- DAP Alex Plus Caulk (I'd actually recommend buying in bulk because it is much cheaper, and I use this on almost every project too.)
- Caulk Gun (no need to buy a fancy one. This one will work fine)
- Elmer's Wood Filler
- Zinsser Bulls Eye Primer (Or, get the 5 gallon bucket. I've used it on walls, furniture, cabinets, you name it.)
- Waterbased Acrylic-Alkyd Enamel Paint Semi-Gloss (I used Benjamin Moore Advance, but you can also use Sherwin Williams ProClassic).
- Plastic drop cloth (Another item I buy in bulk. Are you seeing a theme?)
- Cloth or rag
- New Hardware (I got a 25-pack of oil-rubbed bronze bar pulls. I knew I would be using them on other furniture and cabinets, and it was a lot cheaper than buying a 2 pack).
- Mounting Template (if you are installing new hardware, this is a total lifesaver)
Step 1: Remove Any Hardware
- Remove any drawer slides, drawer pulls, knobs, etc.
Step 2: Clean surface
- Use a rag with warm water and a mild dish detergent to remove grease and dirt.
Step 3: Fill in Holes with Wood Filler
- Use wood filler to patch any holes, dents, etc.
- Once wood filler has dried, sand the patches until smooth
Step 4: Lightly Sand Entire Surface
- Lightly sand your furniture. The goal is to slightly rough up the surface so the primer has something to grip.
Step 5: Wipe With Tack Cloth
- Wipe thoroughly with tack cloth. This will remove any dust left behind. Make sure you remove dust and particles from all the corners and crevices.
Step 6: Prime and Caulk
- Apply primer with your mini foam paint roller.
- Use the angled brush to reach the places your roller can't (corners and crevices).
- Let dry at least 3 hours.
- Caulk every crack and crevice (I like to wait until after I have primed because it is easier to see what needs to be caulked.
- Allow caulk to dry.
- Apply a second coat of primer.
- Depending on your piece, you may need to apply a third coat of primer, which I did.
|After 1 coat of primer|
|After 2 coats of primer|
Step 7: Paint
Don't go cheap on the paint. I know there are people who swear by chalk paint. I confess: I've never used it, so I can't speak to it. I like the Waterbased Acrylic-Alkyd Enamel Paint for a couple reasons:
- It doesn't stink like oil-based paint
- When fully cured, it hardens and doesn't dent or scratch easily
- It has leveling properties to hide brush marks
- It will give your furniture a clean, finished, professional look.
Trust me: it is worth the extra money. Here is my process for minimizing brush marks and air bubbles:
- Apply paint with a foam roller first
- Apply paint to your paintbrush. Holding your brush at 30-degree angle, lightly skim the top of the area you just rolled.
- Wait 24 hours for paint to dry.
- Lightly sand the painted surface.
- Wipe down with tack cloth.
- Repeat steps 1-3.
|Painted and ready for new hardware.|
|New hardware can transform your furniture.|
- Measure where you need to drill holes using a mounting template and mark with a pencil.
- Drill holes using your drill
- Install hardware using screwdriver
Step 9: Admire The Finished Product
|Fresh. Clean. Modern.|